This website is dedicated to those that have hiked Rim to Rim (and R2R2R) of the Grand Canyon that would like to share their story and officially join the Rim to Rim Club® of the Grand Canyon as well as to inspire, motivate and provide logistical information for others looking to embark on the journey!
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In June of 1996, my wife Kathy and I started what turned out to be a two-year adventure to cross the Grand Canyon. The following is a description of the hike, with details explaining how it can take more than two full years.
Our western canyon hiking adventure began in earnest at the top of the south rim of Grand Canyon National Park on the morning of June 6, 1996. The south rim, at an altitude of about 7200 ft., is about 5000 ft. above the Colorado River. There are two maintained trails down to the river from the south rim, the Bright Angel Trail and the South Kaibab Trail. While the South Kaibab is shorter (6 miles compared to 9 miles), the Bright Angel is by far the easier hike due to the presence of water, and a rest stop halfway down. Our plan is to hike Bright Angel down about 3000 feet to Indian Gardens campground and finish the downward trip to Phantom Ranch the following morning.
We start at 8 AM, because the forecast is for hot and sunny weather. In the Grand Canyon, when they say hot, they mean HOT!. It is not unusual for the high temperature at the bottom to exceed 120F, despite the pleasant 60F at the beginning. There are four water stops along Bright Angel Trail from the rim to Indian Gardens. The source of all this water is actually a spring/water fall on the north rim. In fact, all of the water used by the facilities on both rims comes from this one spring on the north rim.
Fortunately, the piping for the water to the south rim parallels this portion of the Bright Angel Trail, and the Park Service has supplied these water stops. In the heat, sun and low humidity these rest areas are lifesavers. We find out later how literal this is, as four scouts and a scoutmaster actually meet their demise in the area of the South Kaibab Trail at the very same time that we are on the Bright Angel.
By the time we get to Indian Gardens Campground at about noon, the temperature is already over 100F and still rising. We sit in the shade of a cottonwood, continually soak ourselves with water, rest, and await the setting of the sun. At sunset we walk out to a viewpoint to take in the sunset over the Grand Canyon from about 1500 feet above the waters of the Colorado. We spend the early evening watching deer come to the springs for food and water.
Arising early the following morning, we continue deep into the inner gorge, arriving at Phantom Ranch at about 10:30 AM. The expected high temperature is 125F. The heat here is not intolerable however due to Glen Canyon Dam some 110 miles upstream. What has that to do with the seemingly unbearable heat here at Phantom ranch? The water running out of Glen Canyon Dam is a pretty constant 46F. Here at Phantom Ranch, the Colorado River runs a cold 48 degrees. Sitting along the river with your legs in the water it is easy to stay cool.
For the next 5 days, we will not stray far from the river as we meet the guides from Diamond River Rafting and head downstream through the lower half of the Grand Canyon along the Colorado River. Rafting in the Grand Canyon is a unique adventure. The trip we have chosen is a 5 day motorized trip through the lower portion. This portion of the canyon includes some of the more famous rapids including Hermit Falls and Lava Falls. Nights are spent on riverside beaches, and the river guides prepare three meals a day. Each day is spent both rafting the rapids and hiking up the myriad of canyons that open into the Colorado. The highlight of these hikes is certainly the beautiful turquoise waters of Havasu Creek.
The first part of Grand Canyon adventure ends at the Havasupai Indian Reservation where we are bused out to meet a charter flight back the North Rim Grand Canyon Airport.
Jumping ahead to the end of Pro Fun tour 98, we join my brother and his wife at Diamond River Rafting in Page, AZ. We start down the Colorado in the upper half of the Grand Canyon; a four day trip to Phantom Ranch. This upper portion contains most of the significant Anasazi ruins. One place in particular contains the more than 40 original home sites where shards of ancient pottery are literally everywhere. Vasey’s Paradise and Redwall Cavern are also on this section of the river.
Arriving at the beach at Phantom Ranch on the morning of 9 September 98 we have finished rafting all of the Grand Canyon. It now remains to only finish the Trans-Canyon hike that we started two plus years ago.
The North Rim sits on the Kaibab Plateau at 8200 feet, just about 6000 feet above the Colorado River and 14 miles away via the North Kaibab Trail. Warning signs are plentiful: warning us that we should not attempt to hike out of the canyon from here unless we start before 6AM. Of course, we have no plans to hike the entire trail in one day, but rather plan to spend the night at Cottonwood Camp about 6 miles upstream.
We walk for just about four hours to reach Cottonwood Camp. After rousting a sleeping rattler from our designated campsite, we spend the afternoon, relaxing in the shade of the cottonwoods and bathing in the clear waters of Bright Angel Creek. The waters of the Colorado have been running red due to thunderstorms and flash flooding in the side canyons throughout our rafting trip, so the clear water is well received.
Arising at 6AM for our final climb, and one last good drenching from a thunderstorm, we proceed up the North Rim. The North Kaibab Trail passes two impressive waterfalls, one of which (roaring springs) is the water source mentioned earlier. The pump station nearby is one of only two water stops along the last six miles and nearly 5000 feet of hiking. Today, the clouds have arrived early and the temperature is not more than 90F.
This last hike is the most grueling portion of the trans-canyon hike. For more than six hours we climb on the cliff faces, continually tramping upwards. We eat through cartons of cereal, loaves of bread, and hoards of candy bars, but still we are hungry and not yet at the top. The effort required to hike out of the canyon is staggering, but in just over eight hours we arrive at the North Rim.
And so, the adventure ends. We have finally completed our trans-canyon hike; a mere two years, three months, 4 days and 6 hours after it began. I think this may be a record for the longest time required to cross the canyon.
The Canyon is a special place. The views are phenomenal, but the hiking is not for the faint of heart or weak of leg. Rafting, while significantly easier, is by no means easy. For those who cannot or will not hike into or out of the canyon there are two alternatives. You can ride a mule (a not altogether pleasing prospect), or you can raft the entire 200 plus miles of the Colorado (an eight day ordeal). The last possibility of course is to skip it entirely, but then you will miss one of the natural wonders of the world.
September 20 – 22, 2023, my little sister and I, ages 63 and 65, completed this hike. We hiked down South Kaibab the first day and spent the night at the Bright Angel campground. On the 21st we hiked to the Cottonwood campground. On the last day, we hiked out North Kaibab to my waiting car at the trailhead. What a trip, one of the highlights of my life!
4 or 5 years ago while visiting north rim, I said to my girlfriend wouldn’t it be awesome if there was a trail form rim to rim, I was overheard by a bystander, and he said there is and I’ve just ran it in 5 hours, I knew then I had to do it, it took a few years and finally I had to stop talking and just do it, I started late afternoon from south rim down the bright angel trail, I walked until it was dark then rested until it was light, on the ground no pad no tent, I was on the north side a couple of miles past phantom ranch, practically no sleep just rest, continued up towards north rim, met a few hikers, one guy was doing a non stop hike, one guy was going up then back to phantom ranch, I think he turned around as I never saw him again, I told my self just keep moving, going up the north side is the most challenging awe inspiring slog I’ve ever done, the scenery is incredible, the last 2 miles will test you, I ate at the lodge and went back to the trail head and rested, met a few hikers some first timers like me and some vets of the hike, I was going to rest but changed my mind and started going back down towards the south rim, I took a break at cottonwood campground 3 to 4 hours, at first light I got moving, got down to the river and it was WARM!!! Once I got back into bright angel there’s a creek I cooled off a little there and just kept moving, I took another break at cotton wood filled my camel back and went for the rim, there was very few people at that time on the trail, as I was around one half mile from the top all of a sudden there were rocks coming down from above, some people in front of me were shouting to whoever it was but the rocks kept coming we hugged against the wall to avoid being hit and killed, finally I got to the top and I saw a young child 5 or 6 throwing rocks off the edge, his mother was oblivious to this kids actions, I shouted to him to not throw, his mother went ballistic on me, it was not good, I couldn’t make her understand the gravity of the situation, The hike was over I was alive, and I should have reported it but didn’t, I’m 65 years old and I would do it again, it was AWESOME.
I hiked down to Phantom Ranch with a pal during my 61st year on this orb that trip convinced me I had to backpack Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim before I kicked from old age. I lucked out and secured the camping permits and had planned to do it as a 64-year-old to celebrate my impending 65th birthday. However, Covid delayed my trip and the Park Service allowed me to apply five months early versus the usual four months and that enabled me to secure permits for my desired days. I am now well on my way to my 66th birthday, but received my new permit just in time to do the trip this May—still as a 65-year-old. I will do the trip solo, and will take a leisurely six days, with five nights of camping. That last trip to the floor was too hurried, hiking down South Kaibab in three hours, and up Bright Angel the following day in four. I didn’t want to repeat that mistake in that it’s such an amazing journey, I should have lingered and soaked it all in instead of competing with myself for time. This trip I plan to day-hike every side trail I can from each campground. I can hardly wait.
Yesterday I did the Rim to Rim hike in one day with my boy scout troop. We started out at the North rim at about 5:30 am. We took the North Kaibab trail down to Phantom Ranch. We took a short break at Supai Tunnel to take off layers as we were heating up. We continued hiking down to Manzanita Rest area where we took a longer break for about an hour where we filled up waters and ate our trail food. We then continued on towards Phantom Ranch. We reached Phantom Ranch at about 11:20 am. We took a longer break to eat our lunches and to let the group catch up as we had split up.
After Phantom Ranch we continued on with the uphill climb looming in front of us. We stopped to take some photos as we crossed over the Colorado River on the Silver Bridge. Then we started the nearly 9 mile trek up to the South Rim via the Bright Angel trail. We started out strong on the up hill portion taking a short break at the river rest house before continuing on to Indian Garden. At Indian garden we took a longer break to let our feet rest and to fill our waters one last time as we were told that the water was down along the trail. By this point it was about 3:20 pm. We continued pushing on for the last 4.5 miles.
We started spreading out more and more on the uphill portion. Each 1.5 mile section to the rest houses kept feeling longer and longer. By the time we passed the 3 mile rest house we were spread out to where we were in groups no larger than 5 people. We were down right exhausted going uphill. Most of us had hit the “wall” by the 3 mile rest house. As the sun started to set we were spread out in groups of 1-2 people. We were told that there was a storm coming so we were pushing to get out before the storm. By the time I passed the Lower Tunnel on the Bright Angel trail I was exhausted and was just trudging on telling myself that I could collapse at the top. By this time I had my headlamp out because it was getting dark. I was getting cold because the wind from the storm was rolling in. When I finally passed the upper tunnel I picked up the pace because I was close. Once I got out at about 6:30 pm I just collapsed on the ground to wait for the rest of the group. I did it in just over 13 hours, but the last people in the group took about 15 hours. It was an extremely beautiful hike, but was also extremely challenging and brutal on the body.
Congratulations Danny!
A well accomplished feat.
Grand mom & Grandpop R
Yesterday my long-time friend Scott and I celebrated our 40th birthdays by doing a one day rim to rim. We camped at Mather campground on south rim, left at 5 a.m. down bright angel trail and finished at the north rim lodge at 6 p.m. We had the additional mile and a half on the front and back side of the canyon hike but it was definitely not bad compared to terrain in the canyon! The worst part was the heat, over a hundred degrees at phantom ranch. We took long breaks to cool off, eat, and hydrate at bright angel campground and again at cottonwood campground.
The one surprise that’s worth noting is that the water at all the supply areas along the way is warm and it is surprisingly difficult to drink warm water when you’re that hot. In hindsight we should have filtered water just to be able to drink cold water. But we soaked ourselves and brought bandanas to soak and stuff under our hats to cover our necks. That was a game-changer to keep us cool. We also got into the water many times soaking ourselves. It’s amazing how fast you dry off afterward. We fortunately caught shade in the canyon as we approached North rim and had a successful endeavor.
Now at North rim, enjoying the restaurant (don’t forget to make reservations ahead of time), our cabin, and the view, we prepare to take the shuttle back to Mather campground where we left camp set up while we were gone. That’s where we will camp for one more night and then head back home.
The best parts of the trip were swimming by the waterfall north of cottonwood campground, the camaraderie of my brotherhood with Scott, and the people we met along the way. Stopping to actually have conversations, ask where people are from and why they are in the canyon, and sharing a brief moment with them during an adventure, add so much more to an already inspiring trip. What an awesome experience!
Welcome into the Club Jerome and Scott! Hope you enjoy that meal and your trip back to Mather to enjoy the PERSPECTIVE of what you both just accomplished! And Happy 40th to both of you!
Hiked down North Kaibab up Bright Angel in one day. Started at 5am, ended at 4pm. Hiked in early August, in an extreme heat warning. The most amazing thing I have ever done, would not recommend unless you are as stubborn and stupid as we are.
We hiked rim to rim 2001. We started at the North Rim, hiked to Cottonwood Canyon, camped there. Next day hiked to Bright Angel, camped there. Next day hiked to Indian Garden, camped there. Next day hiked out of the Canyon to South Rim. It was a wonderful experience! We’re hoping to do rim to rim with our teen boys ages 14 and 16 this summer!!
On the 28th of October 2020, my brother and I set off down the South Kaibab on our first R2R2R. The last time we were there together was in 1967. He was one and I was ten, on a family vacation.
Our first night’s camp was at Indian Garden so we hiked down to Tip Off and took the Tonto across to Indian Garden on the Bright Angel. After setting up camp we took a walk to Plateau Point to see the Colorado up close.
The second day we hiked down the Bright Angel to the river and up the North Kaibab for two nights in Cottonwood.
The third day was a hike up to the north rim and back with day packs on.
The fourth day we went to Phantom Ranch to fill up with 10 liters of water each to dry camp the next two nights up on the Clear Creek trail to camp just inside the use area by the cairns. What a grind climbing up the Clear Creek with a pack and all that water. We had a half liter left when we left camp to hike out.
The first night was Halloween and the weather was good enough to sleep without the rainflys on the tents. As it was getting dark we started to see all the headlamps of the runners coming down from the south rim at various places on the South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails. About an hour after sunset the light of a full moon started at the top of the south rim and slowly worked it’s way down the the bottom of the canyon.
The fifth day was a day to relax since we had hiked 12 to 14 miles each of the first three days and 10 the fourth day. That day we took a stroll to get a close up look at Zoroaster and sat around camp to just marvel at all the amazing scenery.
The last day we left camp at 3am and headed down to Phantom for breakfast and to turn our packs in. Yep we took the easy was out and let the mules take the bulk (30 lbs. of our weight), up for us. Our packs were around 50 lbs. when we started, so shedding 30 lb was a big help for the climb out.
64 miles total in the 6 days. Sights and emotions in the soul that will be with me for the rest my life.
Bob,
What an experience that must have been! Can’t believe you carried 10 liters but so smart heading up the Clear Creek trail.
That’s a great way to take on a R2R2R – 6 days – AWESOME!
Happy you and your brother had this great experience & memories together in the canyon!
Hi, what do you think about staying at Bright Angel Campground 2 nights? We hiked rim to rim 2001 prekids. Now we have our 2 teen boys going with us. Think 2 nights at Bright Angel Campground would be too boring for them?
Cool! I’m twelve years old and my family just made reservations at phantom ranch to do Rim to Rim in two days. I’m super excited, and hope a have an experience just as amazing as yours!
This is AWESOME Stephen and hope you have an amazing hike and stay at Phantom Ranch! Have some lemonade for us!
In 2018 I survived a massive heart attack – 100% blockage of my widowmaker… On October 16, 2020 I hiked from the north rim to the south rim in 12 hours… Living life to the fullest and not letting fear control you. God is Good! We prepared – BIG TIME – and we crushed it. Rim 2 Rim is an absolute amazing opportunity and experience.
Wow! Faith over Fear! So happy you were hugged by the canyon and had a great experience! Here’s to your climb!
Jeff,
AMAZING! In Sept 2016 I lost my youngest brother to massive heart attack at 36 yrs old. That following January my next youngest brother survived 100% blockage of the widowmaker as well! You are so right about living life. That year we started planning and training to hike the canyon in memory of my brother.
On the anniversary of his death, we completed my first Rim 2 Rim, my husband’s second. We have since done more! We are hooked! We are extremely lucky to live an hour and a half from the south rim.
Congrats on such an amazing hike! When you going back??? 😉
Krissy
I just completed R2R for the 6th time on October 15, 2020. My first (and second) was at the age of 22, when I completed a R2R2R over the course of 3 days. At 29, I have now made my 6th journey from end to end in one day and so far it was the most difficult. My spirit was challenged and the Canyon tried to break me like it had never before. I made it though and now I am resting. I will be back again. I plan to make a lifetime out of going into the Big Ditch, my soul place, my favorite place in the world, where only my feet will take me. Here’s to The Grand Canyon!
Last year the big 5-0 came to be. There is still a tight friendship among a few of my high school buddies. We all come from the Midwest(Illinois). While in Florida last September, celebrating one of our 50th bday, someone brought up hiking R2R next year. We all celebrated with a shot of Fireball and said “Hell Yeah”. Let the training begin!! After a month of training I hurt my knee. After an MRI in January, doc said double meniscus tear. Surgery was going to mean I would have to miss the adventure. Instead, I bought a hinged brace and toughed out training. In the meantime, the guy in charge of permit calls us and let’s us know that in March there’s isn’t access to the North rim except hiking up. This meant we would have to try R2R2R.
We dropped in on Sunday March 15th and headed down South Kaibab. After about 4 hours in, reality that this downhill was grossly underestimated by us. After a night in Bright Angel, on to Cottonwood. Short flat hike….great day of recovery. Next day was the BIG one, 14 miles summitting North and back to Cottonwood. Again, downhill was hard. The views though are well worth the suffering. Next day back to Bright Angel to recover before heading up Bright Angel Trail. We summited the Bright Angel Trailhead on the 19th with about 3-4” of snow on the South side of the Canyon…..”beautiful” doesn’t do it justice.
Tired, hungry, and pretty sore but to look around at the 4 of us all with big smiles on our faces. So glad I got to experience this adventure with these guys. Later that evening over dinner, we asked each other what’s our next adventure!!
Don’t let your age dictate what you think you can and can’t do. Anything is possible with preparation and a willingness to succeed!
I saw the Grand Canyon for the first time when I was 16 years old. I visited the North Rim with a young man that would become my husband. I met a wrangler named Walaupai (sp) and he told me stories of the Phantom Ranch. I decided then I would visit the Ranch one day. Well, the marriage didn’t last but the dream did, although it was tucked away under daily life of a single mom.
Four years ago I visited the South Rim and my dream was reawakened. While researching hiking to the bottom, I found this site and decided to do the Rim to Rim with a stay at the Ranch. The first year, I injured my foot and knee so wasn’t able to go. I didn’t give up on the dream though. Then last year my dad passed away unexpectedly and the wind was knocked out of my sails. I didn’t even think of the Canyon until this spring.
I ran across the back country permit application I had printed out two years ago. I waffled, but finally decided to go for it. I’m not getting any younger and if not now, when? I knew it was meant to be when I put in my application and received a response within just a few days with my permit. I was able to book a cabin on the North Rim and a room on the South Rim for the days around my intended hike. And the biggest surprise of all was getting a bed at the Ranch because someone had cancelled.
I started training on the stairs at work to keep my legs working. I used the checklist to pack my gear & make my plans.
I hiked down from the North Rim (North Kaibab) on 8/23. Temperatures were soaring around 110-115 with a high of 159 recorded in the box. Lots of hydration, lots of sitting in the creek, and lots of kindness from strangers allowed me to complete my 50 year old dream. I spent a night at the Phantom Ranch. The dorm was air-conditioned (thank you, God!) and the food was delicious!
This was an experience for me so I did not rush. I stayed at Cottonwood my first night, then went to PR on the 2nd. I then spent 2 nights at Indian Garden before hiking out on Bright Angel. I developed Trail Toe (I had never heard of this) so had to hike out in my flip-flops, but it wasn’t a problem (the Trail Toe was but the flip-flops weren’t).
I’m planning another trip. I absolutely had the best experience and can’t wait to do it again now that I know what not to do. 🙂
So happy you were able to live out your dream Debi and complete the hike. Things have a way of working out when we need them to and it sounds like your trip did plus you gained canyon hiking experience which allows us all to take those lessons into our next hike. Welcome into the club!
I have been to the canyon many times, and had always wanted to hike down. My first trip was just from the the south rim to 1.5 mile. I was overweight and out of shape. After being diagnosed with type 2 diabetes a change was in order. I changed my diet and started feeling better. I decided I was hiking rim-to-rim and everyone thought I was crazy. No one would go with me so I went alone. I went in late july 2018 at the hottest time of year (more because I am stubborn than anything else) Started at 4pm at north Kaibab trailhead. Hiked in for about 30 mins and stood there looking up thinking “what the hell am I doing?” It was so beautiful and enticing I moved forward and got to cottonwood after dark, I ate a prepacked meal that had tomato powder in it (I found out later) under “natural flavors” and as I am allergic to tomatoes the adventure began. after the vomiting and other issues stopped I felt better and decided to move forward. I was really tired when I got to Bright Angel the next afternoon. I had a bit of a fever and felt dehydrated. Usually not a huge deal but the heat was intense. I layed in the creek all day and felt better. I decded to night hike out and it was absolutely wonderful. The day was good, I felt fine and was loving it til I got to the corkscrew and discovered my camelbak had been leaking. It was so hot my shorts didn’t really get wet. My canteen was empty. a ranger directed me to a stream to cool off at the top of the corkscrew, treated some water and felt a little better. Having said that, by the time I got close to indian garden I knew I was in trouble. My vison was a bit blurry and I was struggling to stay awake. I got in touch with a medic and was lead to the clinic. Diagnosed with Hyponatremia. This is not fun, but I refused to be transported out. 9 hours, 2 bowls of ramen, and 3 liters of saline I felt like a new person. I took my time climbing out and had a wonderful day I climbed slowly and about every mile there was a ranger sitting around and said hey are you mark? how is it going? they helped me feel better just knowing they were paying attention. The medic at indian gardens was spectacular, I think she saved my life. I made it to the top of bright angel trail in good shape and felt great. This experience was by far the coolest I have ever had. I went in prepared for anything, I thought. I was wrong. We are headed back in September and this time my food choices will be dramatically different. I will also carry ramen packets. I love the canyon and fully expect to be fine on this next trip.
I have completed more than 20 excursions into the canyon over the years, most of them as multi-day wilderness backpacking trips. I have a personal goal to hike all the named trails in the canyon.
A friend of mine turned me on to the Rim-Rim experience when I was 50. I’m now 57 and have done Rim-Rim 4 times, including one Rim-Rim-Rim. My wife and I are planning our next excursion for this coming May. Our groups have typically through-hiked from South to North and then back again. Typically we all go with the intention of doing Rim-Rim-Rim, doing each trip as a day-hike, with a rest day on the North Rim between hikes to recover and enjoy majestic beauty of the canyon–which I believe is unsurpassed when experienced from the north side. Depending on how each individual’s first hike goes, we decide who will do the return hike. Twice I have opted for one way only with a shuttle ride back to the South Rim.
I will say a one-way Rim-Rim is simultaneously one of the most challenging AND rewarding hikes you can do. Doing a round trip makes it exponentially harder…AND more rewarding!
This site has many excellent tips and recommendations. I would emphasize the following:
Prepare: don’t underestimate the difficulty of these hikes. I don’t care how fit you are.
Travel light: if you’re thru-hiking you need only water, nutrition, and a few small personal comfort items, and maybe extra clothes for if the weather changes.
Hydration: ‘Nuff said.
Pacing: It’s not a race. Take it easy, be careful, and don’t over exert. Stick to a 10-12hr plan.
Nutrition: I shoot for 300-500 calories an hour.
Anything after that is in the hands of the gods. The unpredictable and changeable weather in the canyon can either help or destroy the best-laid plans. eg. We always go 2nd week of May. I have hiked it in snow and 120 degree heat, with calm airs and blowing 25mph in your face, in rain and sunshine. Be prepared and flexible.
Lastly…every time, as we’re hiking, I say “never again”. And then as soon as we’re done, we start planning the next trip. It’s that kind of experience.
I still do not have a story to tell about the Rim to Rim hike. Rather I am writing to gather some information. I am sorry if this is not the right place for that, but it seems to be the best and most accurate site to learn more about this trail. In any case, you may disregard this message. I am a Brazilian and have already been twice to the Grand Canyon, first time was 20 years ago, since then I felt so attracted by it and started wondering if there was a way to go down to the Colorado River. Last year me and my boyfriend did the Wind River trail in Wyoming, went to Utah and headed to the Grand Canyon, by that time we discovered the Rim to Rim trail. As we haven’t planned anything, we just went some steps down in the North Kaibab Trailhead. And we were totally amazed! We are not totally inexperienced hikers, but we know that this one may be challenging. We are getting prepared and we would like to seek some recommendation on what trail to get when we head uphill as we are planning to do from the North to the South and want to know which path would have more interesting and beautiful things for Brazilians to see : )
I have read that in order to stay one night in the Phantom Ranch we do not need a permit. I would like to know what is going to be hardest to get, a Phantom Ranch overnight stay or a permit for Campground? Is it possible to check it just by email or telephone calls are really needed?
I would love if anyone would revert some lines on these.
Thank you and congratulations to all for conquering such a challenge!
I planned to do the R2R with my good buddy in September so we both trained hard all summer. We signed up with a great guide services, Wildland Trekking, and were all set to go, but a week before, Brian called me and said he had acquired planter fasciatis. BUMMER! We both really wanted to go together, but it wound up being me and the other folks. IT WAS AMAZING! We left Flag early in the morning and drove to the north rim. We headed down the trail later in the morning of September 5 and it was beautiful. Hot, but nice in the shady spots. We spent our first night in Cottonwood and I was so excited I could barely sleep, even though we were all pretty tired. We got up the next morning and hit the trail in the dark, to avoid the heat. A real good move. When we got to Phantom Ranch around noon we set up camp and then jumped in the creek – COLD WATER NEVER FELT SO GOOD! Then it was on to the mess hall for 3 big glasses of lemonade. The climb out of the canyon the next 2 days was a challenge but wonderful to experience. We even saw a big pink grand canyon rattler. I will do this again because it was phenomenal and want to thank my fellow hikers Ron and Lijou as well as our super guide Kenton for making the trip so great!!!
Thanks Pete, I had a great time too! Our 4d/3n hike gave us plenty of time to pace ourselves, avoid the brunt of the sun and appreciate everything the R2R offers. The gorgeous vistas going down the North Kaibab on Day 1 took my mind off the long, toe-crunching descent. On Day 2, our fearless guide Kenton led us to Ribbon Falls for a little R & R (but we stayed mindful of the sacredness of the place to native tribes). At Phantom Ranch, Kenton found us a sweet campsite with super-easy access to the creek. Then onward to the canteen for lemonade. And beer. And chocolate. And beer. The canteen’s “swampcooler” brought the interior temp down several degrees, but thankfully it didn’t feel artificially cold inside the building–you don’t want to feel like you’re sitting in a Starbucks at the bottom of the canyon! Later we walked out to Boat Beach for a beautiful view of the Black Bridge spanning the Colorado. We watched a longhorn sheep come down to drink from the river on the opposite bank. There were a couple of beautiful creatures on our side of the river too. (I think they said they were from California.)
Day 3, we crossed the Silver bridge before daybreak. The sun was up by the time we stopped for breakfast, just below the River Resthouse. (Pro tip: get the water for your coffee/tea from adjacent Pipe Creek, not the river itself.) The uphill grade to Indian Garden wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. Relaxed in the shade at IG, attended a Ranger Talk and then hiked the 1.5 mile spur trail to Plateau Point where we had a hot delicious dinner overlooking the Colorado a thousand feet below us.
Got on the trail before daybreak again on Day 4. Had breakfast in a quiet, secluded area beyond the 3-mile Resthouse (if memory serves), with views of IG and Plateau Point. The final miles up Bright Angel trail are not easy, but do-able, especially if you trained with a weighted pack beforehand. The closer we got to the BA trailhead, the more frequently we passed those sweetly-scented, recently-bathed tourists who had decided to venture below the rim. I stunk in comparison but I wore my stink like a badge. Thanks Lij, Pete and Kenton for a great trip. Hope to get back there soon!
My wife and I just completed our first R2R last week, along with our 7 year old son. We dropped the car at the South Rim, shuttled to the North Rim, and spent the night in a cabin before hitting the trail at 4 AM. We stayed a night at Cottonwood, a night at Bright Angel (Phantom Ranch), and a night at Indian Garden before hiking up the South Rim. There was a heat wave last week and we saw temps of 115-120 in the sun at the bottom of the canyon. Soaking in creeks and streams was essential, along with very early (4 and 5 AM) starts each morning.
I’m most proud of my 7 year old for completing the rim to rim in this extreme heat, with a full pack on his back. Yes, we made him carry most of his own gear, including water! There were some struggles and a few complaints along the way, but he did it and we’re extremely proud of him.
WOW! That is amazing Erik and we are proud of your son! Welcome each of you into the club!
Spectacular in every way. The last three miles were the toughest thing I have ever done. Maybe will ever do. Still digesting the experience – and dealing with tight quads and massive blisters!
My 16 year old daughter(two days before her birthday) set off last week at 5:30am down South Kaibab trail. The hike down is long and tough, I lost a toenail, but beautiful! We ate bagels and drank lemonade at Phantom Ranch, chasing the squirrels off our packs.we gathered back up around 1pm and headed down the North Kaibab. By the time we made it to Cottonwood Campground we realized zed we were really tired! A girl named Sarah invited us to stay at her campsite. She made us a hot meal, let us sleep in her tent, and sent us off the next morning with a few extra Clif bars. The last 7 miles up North Kaibab and out of the canyon are tough and slow going, but we made it out around noon and were never so excited to see my husband and youngest daughter! Such a tough hike, but amazing, beautiful, and inspiring. At night in Cottonwood i got up in the middle of the night and looked around to see the full moon lighting up the sides of the canyon walls, and the stars!!! I am so glad to have done this!
You are totally inspiring!!! We so want to do this but have a couple questions we hope you don’t mind answering… 🙂
How far up the North side is Cottonwood campground? How long did it take you to get there from the top of the south rim in one day?
How many hours did it take you to go from Cottonwood campground to the top of the south rim?
In 1973 I visited the Grand Canyon as a 13 year old. I remember being in awe at the beauty and size. At the time we were not able to spend much time at the South Rim, let alone go below the rim. I told myself that one day I would come back. In 2014 I began my retirement plans and began to think about hiking the Canyon. When I expressed my desire to the family, I was pleased to find out one of my daughters had the same want.
So, after making our Bright Angel Campground reservations, I began researching the trails, stocking up on equipment and getting into better shape. I also, reserved 2 sack lunches at Phantom Ranch for that first day. {It was nice to not have the extra weight of one meal.}
On June 9th, at 6 am, Madison and I began our decent into the Canyon from the South Rim via the South Kaibab Trail. We progressed leisurely down to Bright Angel Campground. Besides the amazing views we got to visit with a couple of the mule handlers at the Cedar Ridge rest area. Both these guys were very genuine and down to earth with us. One of the pack mules had a strap break and they were waiting on new equipment from the next set of riders. They took time to answer our questions and explain how the mules were handled and taken care of. It was obvious they were professionals and enjoyed their work. They even posed for a picture for us. Thanks guys!
We proceded to Skeleton Point and past The Tip Off. I was enjoying every step while thinking about getting to concur a 44 year dream. When we saw the Colorado a new excitement came over us. The site of it makes one feel like you are actually making progress. The switchbacks are killers. I had done lunges, squats and hiked the steepest hills around home, but was not prepared for the steepness or the 15 and 16 inch steps! Although my boots were well broken in, I was constantly placing my feet sideways while stepping down to avoid slipping. This new foot placement led to 2 of the most impressive blisters I’ve ever conjured up. We were both happy to see the Black Bridge come into view and start to cruise across some level ground. Once we reached Bright Angel Campground, we set up camp and began our cool down period. Bright Angel Creek was a blessing for this.
After setting up camp, Maddy and I walked up to Phantom Ranch to retrieve our sack lunches. The much needed lemonade and air conditioning convinced us to spend about 3 hours indoors relaxing and talking with other hikers.
Our original plan was to go to bed early, 8:30 or 9 pm and get up early, around 4 or 4:30 am, and start our upward hike towards the North Rim. The plan changed pretty quickly. Temperatures were so warm neither of us could sleep. We decided to set our alarm for 1 am and go again. We packed up our gear, filled our camel pacs, cleaned our little used campsite and were on the North Kaibab Trail by about 2:15 am. As we headed out we made a brief visit to the restroom and we were greeted by a doe deer that was reluctant to give right of way. She was one of several deer we encountered near Phantom Ranch and the campground. I enjoyed hiking in the dark, but the same could not be said for my daughter. She set a blistering pace in what seemed to be an attempt to hike out of the darkness or bury me! Seven miles out we came to our first rest area, the Cottonwood Campground. We took time to mend our blisters, eat a little breakfast and get a nap in the shade of the trees.
I won’t lie, the rest of the hike was tough. We took advantage of every rest stop and about every shady spot we found. Near Roaring Springs the winds started to pick up and the next 2 and a half miles we were facing some very strong winds. We were told later that wind advisories had been put out for the North Rim with gusts of 45 and 50 miles an hour. It was enough to make us a slightly uncomfortable. Once we made it to the Supai Tunnel the winds died down and we started getting the long shadows of a setting sun. As the realization that we were about to finish our challenge was setting in, the decrease in elevation was spiritually uplifting and the final rest area, the Coconino Overlook was a much welcomed site. We made our way through the pines of the last leg. My youngest daughter’s yell was never so delightful as we neared the top. My wife Sonya and daughter Meghan were waiting for what probably seemed like an eternity.
Thanks to everyone involved in this dream of mine, family, friends and the great folks that work the Canyon. It was an adventure of a lifetime for me….44 years in the making.
Phil,
Congratulations to you and your daughter and welcome into the club! Hearing a 44 year dream coming to a reality is AWESOME! Loved your story and we remember those temperatures as you hiked during one of the hottest Junes on record. You were smart to leave when you did for stage 2. Again, welcome and hope the canyon calls you back again to enjoy the perspective of your accomplishment!
Almost the same story. I visited the North Rim with my family in 1964 and my parents allowed me to go on a mule ride part of the way down. When the we stopped for lunch (and to return to the top), all I could see was the trail going on and I wanted to follow it. It took me 54 years to realize that dream on a Rim2Rim last weekend with two of my (now grown) children and a great group of people and guide (kudos to AOA and our guide Mike). An awesome experience.
I have always had an attraction to Grand Canyon. Our family moved to Arizona in 1973, and one of our stops across our cross country migration was Grand Canyon. Through the years, I hiked the trails, but never completed a Rim to Rim. I moved to Washington State with my wife in 1994. From that time until 2007, we never visited GC. In 2007, we started to volunteer for the GC Astronomy Party on the South Rim. We did our first day hike to Cedar Ridge. My wife’s asthma kept her somewhat above Cedar. The next year, we did the ranger hike to Cedar. In 2009, we decided to volunteer for the North Rim Astronomy Party. That year we hiked North Kaibab to Redwall Bridge and pledged our training and efforts to do R2R in 2010. Like the Founders, we were able to score dorms at Phantom over the Labor Day weekend of 2010. During the Star Party of June 2010, we did all sorts of hikes on the North Rim to prepare. Widforss, Uncle Jim, Cape Final, Point Imperial to Nankoweep trail head, and yes, Roaring Springs and back in one day. When we did our hike at the end of August, I knew we had 14+ miles to Phantom. We started early and stopped at Ribbon for a long rest. I am glad we did that because the Box was in shade all the way to Phantom. We arrived in time to check into our dorms and “hikers stew dinner” the first night. If you hike N to S, and reach Phantom in one day, we recommend this, The next day WE WERE SO STIFF!!!!!! To loosen us up, we did the loop from the Silver Bridge to the Black Bridge and soaked for a LONG Time in BA creek. With Steak Dinner at night and Pancakes in the AM, we successfully ascended the BA and stayed at El Tovar as a reward. Canyon Shuttle got us back to the N Rim the next day and we stayed in Kanab, UT that night.
We repeated in June 2012. This time we went South to North, but taking a few more days. Canyon Shuttle dropped us in the afternoon, and we hung out on the S Rim until 3 PM. Our first night was Indian Gardens. We hiked early AM and got to BA Campground before 8 AM where we enjoyed BA creek, lemonade at Phantom, and both ranger programs. The next day we started early to get through the Box. Along the way we spotted beavers in the Riparian areas. We played at Ribbon Falls all day. With our water filter, we gave many hikers the fill up they needed to get to where they were going. Around 5 PM we did the short hike to Cottonwood. The next morning we started at dawn and chased the heat up to the North Rim where we had a reservation for a cabin.
I encourage folks to look at R2R treks by the Grand Canyon Field Institute. In 2015, I did the Tanner to Grandview course. However, they have many R2R hikes. GCFI courses offer a wealth of information.
In 2017 we are going to make another R2R attempt
Great story and thank you for being trail angels for some of the hikers with your water filter! Welcome to the club Tim and Tammy!
Great trip Tim & Tammy
Like yourselves I am looking forward to hiking to Phantom Ranch in August 2017. Not the best time of the year to hike but considered lucky to get reservations at all. You take what’s given to you. It has been 16 years since I last visited Phantom Ranch. There is probably a McDonalds nearby by now.
Not really sure which trail to take. I have been on all three. So now is the time to dig deep for motivation to train. Training and weight management is critical right now during the winter. Who wants to train in snow, ice and 20 degrees. Wonder if anyone else feels this way.
Totally understand Doug and congrats on the Phantom Ranch Reservation. We think key for winter foundation training for all is getting those joints ready and cardio in check to take on 12 hours plus of hiking and prepare for descents (pounding) and ascents (climbing with weight on your back). Tough in winter to train, but as you know key is to get some indoor strength training and consistent cardio in and begin gearing up for the hike. Let us know how your hike goes next August and which route you take and good luck with your training! BTW – we put a picture of part of the South Kaibab trail up near the stairmaster for motivation!
After my family and I saw the grand canyon at the south rim on our way to California for summer vacation five years ago, my son was so impressed that we both agreed that when he graduated high school he and I would do a rim to rim. (I backpacked the Canyon back in 1982 in college).
We were very fortunate to get our back country permit on our first attempt. June 8 we stayed at Cottonwood, June 9 at phantom ranch (delicious stew dinner and breakfast), and June 10 at Indian Gardens. We then took the shuttle from the south rim back to the north rim and to our jeep.
It was such a terrific hike that allowed my son and I to bond and ponder the amazing canyon. We took four days and would highly recommend if you have the time and are fortunate enough to get drawn for one of the few spots at cottonwood campground.
I cannot wait to return.
So happy you were able to have this experience with your son as it sounds like you had a great hike in the canyon! Welcome to the Club Steven!
Hello, Steven and Family! I just joined the Rim to Rim club, having just just learned of its existence. I made my backpack Rim to Rim along with my Cousin Jay Elias. We started on July 10. 2002 when I was 67 years old, and took 4 days just like you to complete the journey. And what a marvelous journey it was, as you know! The only difference between our trips was that we backpacked from the North rim to the the South rim. 2002 was the year that nearly ever one of the western states was on fire somewhere, and as a result of this condition the back country of Arizona as well as most other states were closed to backpackers and most of the public. My Cousin Jay was an experienced backpacker, and I had long wanted to do this, as I love being outdoors and have camped in many different states, including Arizona. This backpacking trip would be my first one! Jay and I had discovered that we would both be in Arizona at the time of our trip, and had agreed that we would go on a backpacking trip together sometime. We decided to meet there and fulfill this long standing wish. When I got there I called Jay, and he was to get any required permits. Imagine my surprise when we met up and he said ” Because of the fire danger, the only permit I could get was to backpack thru the Grand Canyon . Do you still want to go?” Although I am an old soul I am still adventurous so I immediately said yes! I was working as a industrial electrician at that time and had just completed a big three phase wire pull at an electrical generating station. This wire was huge, about 3 inches in diameter, and weighing over 30 pounds a foot. My job there included turning the wire spool by hand some 20 feet in diameter and weighing some 20,000 pounds, in order to keep slack in the wire so the pulling crew would not have that weight to pull as well for some 1500 feet. I was 67 years old but in top physical condition. So, this was to be my initial entry into the world of backpacking! I was excited to be in such a beautiful place for this trip, but did not know what the impact of being in the Canyon was to be. Down there in the canyon you are simply immersed in the beauty of our great land, and you become a part of it! My first surprise was that going downhill was to be just as or more difficult than going back uphill! Those muscles inn your leg are not used as much as the other ones, and this is uncomfortable but manageable. As we had gotten a late start at the top after getting our permit we had planned on our overnight stop would be the campground near the water pumping station. When we got there near the evening hours, we discovered that the campground was completely full and we would have to go on to the next one. The biggest part of the distance to the next camping area was covered by flashlight in the dark. No LED flashlights then, and ours were getting pretty dim when we finally arrived! Boy, were we ready to stop. We both slept like a log! The next morning we were up and about, had a hasty breakfast, and continued on down the trail. The second surprise was that there is little level ground anywhere in the canyon. Although the ups and downs are small, there is sure a lot of them! We arrived at Phantom Ranch late that afternoon, and settled in for the night. The next morning, we broke camp, had another hasty breakfast, and loaded our backpacks. As we were preparing to go, our next door neighbor called over and said”We have more ice than we can use. would you like to have it?” We of course said yes, and filled our canteens and water containers with ice and water, and set off to walk the last mile of so to the Colorado river bridge. A little more about this ice later! What a pleasant sight when we reached the river! The third surprise was that this suspension bridge is very narrow, and is just wide enough for one person. When you meet someone and have to pass, each person just turns sideways and this is easily done. The other function of the bridge is to support the water line for the south rim, as the water pumping station back up the trail pumps water for the use of both North and South rims, or did at that time. At the end of the bridge, the trail turns downriver and continues for about 4 miles or so before turning uphill again. I has a panoramic camera with me, and I snapped a photo shot upriver right there, then raised my camera vertically and took another photo of the view above the first shot. Imagine my surprise when I had the film ( yes, that was right before digital camera’s became readily available) developed and found that the two photo’s were within a quarter inch both vertically and horizontally. I was able to marry these together and this gave me a double wide photo which revealed the remarkable beauty of the canyon as no single photograph will do! We continued our trek and turned uphill. We had passed the first shelter and had continued uphill perhaps a quarter mile or so when we met another hiker. This man was an Australian, and had come to Arizona just to see our natural wonder of the world. He asked if we had any water to spare as he had run out and was very thirsty. We of course said we would be happy to share and asked ” would you like to have a drink of ice water?”.His response was an incredulous ” Mate, you gotta be sh*tting me! ” When he found out we really did have ice water, we told him he was only a mile or so from Phantom Ranch, and he could probably get a steak and a cold beer there as well! This was a humorous and unexpected pleasure, and I an reasonably sure he will tell his mates the story of getting ice water to drink deep in the grand canyon, just as I have treasured this memory as well! The remainder of this day was spent in climbing uphill, including the very steep “Oh my God” hill with many switchbacks to enable reasonable effort to get up that very steep slope. When we arrived at Indian Gardens around 4:00 0r so the temperature on the thermometer was standing at 114 degrees! We were enabled to do this trek safely in July by having access to running water throughout most of the distance. We would stop every half hour of so and wet our clothing in whatever was near. In the dry Arizona air, the evaporation of our wet clothing was very effective in keeping us cool enough to make the journey! We overnighted at Indian Gardens, and elected to get an early start as it is all uphill for nearly the entire five miles or so to the top. It is just like climbing a five mile staircase! This kept us out of a lot of hot sunshine, and if I remember right there is no running water for this part of the trip. There is the usual drinking water standpipe faucets every mile or so. We left Indian Gardens about 2:30 AM, and arrived at the top in the vicinity of 1:30 PM. These are my recollections of this once in a lifetime journey for me, and it is the most strenuous and the most satisfying trip of my lifetime as well! Simply a grand thing to do if you are able. You want to know that you are in top shape and can do this, as if you have to get a ride out in any way, be it mule or Helicopter, it will be very expensive. I hope that those of you who read this have enjoyed my story, and I wish you good luck in all your journeys!
Phil,
Your story is amazing!!!! Love all of it and the ice water you gave to the hiker = priceless (you were trail Angels).
Welcome to the club and thank you for sharing your story!
My son graduated from college and I wanted to treat him to a special trip that both of us would enjoy. Since he was a college athlete, I also wanted it to be challenging for us both, while not being so difficult that I would have trouble completing it. The Rim to Rim hike seemed like just the thing.
We went in the beginning of June, and got a bit of a late start in the morning after staying in a hotel close to the South Rim. We didn’t realize that we could take a shuttle bus to the South Kaibab Trail, so we walked a couple miles from the Visitor Center parking lot. After a challenging hike down, we realized we would be going through the “Box” at the hottest part of the day.
After several stops in the river to rest and get wet, we made it through the Box and began our ascent. Night fell and we still had plenty of ground to cover. Out came our headlamps. Once we finally made it to the top of the North Rim, we were exhausted; but then we realized we had another 1.7 miles to hike to the Lodge and our cabin.
That 1.7 miles was pretty easy going, though, after the North Rim ascent; we finally reached the Lodge at 10pm. We were pretty proud of ourselves since neither of us had really prepared for the trek physically. We ended up being sore for the next few days, but have great memories to look back on and hope to do it again sometime in the future.
I lived to blog about my experience hiking the Grand Canyon Rim 2 Rim hike…in one day!! As soon as we came upon the Cottonwood campsite, I was already starting to plan my return back to the canyon. So many cool things to see and places to explore. This trip was life changing!! After completing this hike, I feel like there’s nothing I can’t do now. Thank you for your blog. It was one of my valuable resources when I was planning my trip last year. Read about my experience and how I trained for the adventure.
Just finished my first (and last?) R2R2R on October 14, 2015. Conditions were absolutely perfect. I left South Rim (S. Kaibob trail head) at midnight sharp, North Rim at 9:50am, and finally, after many blisters, the top of South Rim at 9:35pm. I have never experienced such a tough hike in my life…I pushed it as hard as my body would allow…what a memorable experience! I’m happy with my time (21:35)…I am sure I can probably do better but I have no desire to go back and try to beat the time.
Descending into the dark canyon on a moonless night, alone, was truly memorable for me. I came across two sets of eyes (reflecting from my headlamp) was pretty amazing…not sure what they were but most likely deer…they moved off trail for me! Everyone I met along the way were really nice and supportive.
I would definitely recommend this hike. It was a monster, but I will always remember it.
My husband and I completed the rim to rim hike a couple of days ago on August 25, 2015. We departed the north rim at 0330 on August 24th. Having spoken to a couple of park rangers regarding the dreaded “box” section of the canyon I did not want to be in the box during the frowned upon hours of 1000 and 1600. We were told during these hours there is no shade in the box and temps can reach 140 degrees and in fact someone had died in the box one month ago. Those words had me extremely nervous. It was suggested we make a side trip to Ribbon Falls to check out the beauty and to get soaked in the cold water before entering the box. Off we went in the dark and arrived at the falls at 0930 not returning to the trail until shortly after 1000. The side trip was well worth it as the falls are beautiful and the water wonderfully cold. Now we were entering the box after 10. Fortunately, due to hiking later in August the sun was not completely up over the very narrow section of the canyon. We enjoyed more shade in the box than on other parts of the trail. I would suggest leaving earlier and not taking a chance on shade in the box. We arrived at Phantom Ranch at 1220 where it was 108 degrees. Our cabin was perfect as the air was on and very cold. As usual everyone we have met in the canyon on past excursions have been very nice. People from all parts of the world are at the Ranch and all like to exchange stories of their hiking experience. Having enjoyed a great stew dinner and the company of many new acquaintances we then joined a ranger in the ampitheater for a game of national parks trivia under the stars. This was followed by a scorpion hunt in the mule corral. Who knew that scorpions glow green when a blue light shines on them. Very cool to see them as long as they are not in the shower with you. We departed Phantom Ranch at 0400 with a husband and wife we met as we started out and became fast friends. They are our age (between 55 and 60) and we had quite a bit in common. The 4 of us completed the hike up the Bright Angel by 1200 having made a 30 minute stop at Indian Gardens. Completing this hike was quite an accomplishment and my husband is already talking about doing this again next year in the opposite direction. We will have to wait and see….
I had previously done two trips from the the South rim to the Phantom Ranch and back in a day. Both straight forward events, following the standard South Kaibab down and Bright Angel up. It is done this way because of the drinking water available along the return. So in September 2013 I went to the next level, that being rim to rim in a day. It seemed logical to start at the north rim and walk south ascending via the Bright Angel. After a full day of rest and two nights at the Bright Angel Lodge I returned by the South and North Kaibab trails. No issues encountered with this R2R2R, it is perfectly reasonable for a fit experienced hiker. Sure they are long days and it is hot at the lower levels, but with good preparation it is a fantastic journey. The trails are mostly in very good condition and obvious to follow. The scenery breathtaking and the sense of satisfaction very high. The outbound hike took 11 hours and inbound was 10 hours. Obviously you need to carry a few extra items for your overnights at the south rim, but I managed to keep it to a minimum. I am repeating this fantastic expedition again this year 21st Sept out and back 23rd. I just love it and would do it every year if I lived nearer.
In 1982 my friend and I decided to hike Rim to Rim. We started down on the Bright Angel Trail and hiked North. At Phantom Ranch we had some cool drinks and continued across the canyon to Cottonwood Campground, about a 17 mile hike. The next morning we started up the North Kaibab trail and went past Roaring Springs on the way up. I will say this challenge was among one of the most physically tough challenges I have ever faced. The North Rim so beautiful once we neared the top. My parents were on top waiting for us as we came over the rim. We all spent the night in one of the cabins and enjoyed looking across to the South Rim enjoying a cold beer and sitting outside at the lodge.
In 1974 my brother and I crossed for my first crossing of the Grand Canyon. After getting our permits at the North Rim Backcountry Office, my aunt dropped us off at the North Kaibab Trailhead. We hiked the 4.5 miles down to Roaring Springs Campground; which is now only a picnic area; and spent our first night in the covered cement slab. I loved the sight of water gushing out of the springs, which is where the Grand Canyon gets its water.
The next day we hiked the eight miles to Phantom Ranch and drank lemonade at the concession stand, which is no longer there. We hiked the River Trail loop, seeing both bridges before we hiked up to Indian Garden Campground.
Lessons learned in the Grand Canyon can be expensive, and we could have paid dearly for ours. Eager to get to our destination we set out at 2:00 PM for our hike of the River Trail/Bright Angel Trail. Anyone hiking in 118° heat (read from the thermometer at Bright Angel Campground) learns not to hike in that temperature. We were teenagers; not endowed with wisdom needed to make rational decisions. After ascending the Devil’s Corkscrew I had to remove my glasses: sweat dripping from my forehead clouded them, making them useless. Shortly thereafter we met a couple; the man was from Colorado and the woman was from our hometown, El Paso; who gave us some water (we had run out) and some salt tablets. We were out of The Box, but it was still very hot.
When we reached Indian Garden I went to the water spigot and drank water for what seemed like 5 minutes. After I finished my brother drank for about 5 minutes. Then I drank for another five minutes. Finally, my brother drank for five minutes. We slept well under the stars that night.
The next day we got an early start and hiked the final 4.8 miles to the Bright Angel Trailhead. When we topped out people near the trailhead applauded our accomplishment, and we thanked them. At this point it didn’t seem like a big deal, considering our problems on the previous day. The memories of that hike have given me great pleasures, along with the other hikes; five crossings all told; I have done in the Grand Canyon.
Back in 1970, we hiked from the north rim to the south rim. That was back in the day when hiking shoes were army boots and backpacks had heavy metal frames. Our packs weighted an average of 50# but we loved every minute of it.
We, also, hiked to Phantom Ranch several times and did the day hike down to Indian Gardens but only did the rim-to-rim once. I think the hike from the north rim is more beautiful than the south rim hike and wish I had done it more than once. That said, the grandeur of the canyon is amazing anywhere you are. I’m still amazed every time I see the canyon. I want my kids to make this hike but not sure they are inclined to do it as they are all so busy with other endeavours.
Aloha fellow hikers
Well I will probably be one of the old timers — never thought I would say that but it is becoming more common these days — well on to the story — It was 1976 the nations bicentennial was full on and I was on a quest to write a book about America. I left Brattleboro, Vt alone on my old bicycle with little idea about camping and even less about bicycling — the stories of the next 18 months are beyond belief (really) — I traveled alone for the first 18 months but while I was in Colorado one of my best friends decided to join me — He and I were at the N rim one week before it was to close for the season — we had our bikes and a couple of hundred pounds of gear — I was planning to bike the canyon — (had already biked everywhere else (15K miles by then) so didn’t think it would be a problem– At that time there were no solid restrictions about biking or permits to camp — it was not such a popular hike then– The rangers convinced us that it was not a good idea to try to bike the Canyon and they would help by bringing our gear to the S Rim for us — We were convinced – don’t laugh but we did not have backpacks — so we had to tie gear and food on our bodies as efficiently as possible (not) we each had two loves of bread tied to our belts that swung and banged against our legs — by the second day they were all smashed up (hunger does not care about the shape of the food)– I dont remember how or what else we tied up just remember those loaves of bread (white bread) — I know we had peanut butter too — Food was a premium for me — I did the two year trip on $50.00 — yep — anyway — the trip was not too bad as I was a seasoned biker and Gary had come up to speed pretty well since Colorado — Somewhere about 3/4 of the way down the N Rim I ripped my achilles tendon – badly — It took the rest of the day to make it to Phantom Ranch — I was in extreme pain but I knew the rules about being lifted out of the Canyon for injuries – I had no money then, and could not even comprehend paying the 1,500.00 I had been quoted for emergency airlift– remember no cell phones etc etc etc — I just hobbled along in misery — At Phantom ranch Gary strolled off to the bridge and the river — I lay in agony — He managed to get me up and over to the river ( I will never forget that view) for just a moment my pain dissipated – Back at Phantom Ranch we discovered we were not expected and ended up off to the side out under the stars — All I remember is blissful sleep — I also remember the waterfall over the boulder with the ferns and mosses of bright angel creek — In the morning nothing had improved — I just had to pull up my big boy pants and hobble on — I cannot describe to you hiking out of the Canyon like that — beyond words and pain — But I made it — The rangers had our gear and had set up a special camp spot for wayward bicyclers that had stumbled into the N rim — We stayed for a week — Nearly 35 years later I was visiting the Canyon (I had moved to Gilbert AZ) and actually had more than no dollars — I searched and searched and got my Rim to Rim patch for my backpack as I had become an avid hiker — hiking all over the US and Hawaii — I also got an I hiked the canyon pin for my Jeep — I am proud to be in the Rim to Rim club with all of you — Last week I took a newbie to the Canyon — As I gazed across the vast clear spectacle of beauty before me I was taken back to 1976 and the grand adventure of the Canyon!!!! Will I ever do it again — who knows !! I might like to make the 70 and above club.
Donald, that serious is one of the most amazing “Keep On Keeping On” stories that we have read! WOW! What an amazing trip and all on $50! That really just put it all in perspective. Welcome to the club and proud to have you and all of the other hikers in it! Thanks to all for sharing your stories as we know they will inspire others!
We have hiked Rim to Rim many times (8). The second time was from the North Rim to the South Rim in 1986 with our children and my parents – ages range from 7 to 70.
Now this summer we will hike the same route with our son, his wife, and our grandson. Age range 7 to 68. We will remember the pride my parents, Carrie & Floyd Manning enjoyed during our adventure. Hope that this tradition continues for many generations!
So excited to find this site and read all your Rim to Rim experiences. I have hiked Rim to Rim 3 times in the last 4 years and have my next hike is planned for this September. Will share my Rim to Rim adventures when I have more time. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I just completed my second hike through the canyon. Last year was the first and we went down to Bright Angel Campground, spent the night and then came out. It was very cool, but had no idea what I was missing until I took my time and did it better this year.
This year, we camped at the North Rim before descending. We Played at Roaring Springs, Camped at Cottonwood CG, played again at Rainbow Falls, which was beautiful and a great experience. We made it through “The box” before 10am, so the 120* heat hadn’t hit, but did within an hour or two after we exited through Phantom Ranch.
The day at Bright Angel campground allowed for two day-hikes, playing in the creek as well as some time on the beach of the Colorado River. A hike across Black Bridge, around the South Kaibab and back down the Silver bridge and back to camp was a great way to really see so more than I saw last year.
Early on the following day, we hit most of the 1200 ft climb through the Devils Corkscrew before full sun, and the accompanying 110+ degrees and entered Indian Gardens by 11am. After a short nap in the heat of the day, we ventured out again on a day-hike along the West Tonto Trail. We came back for a light dinner and hit the plateau for a breathtaking view of Colorado river, east to west and a spectacular sunset.
Our final day had us breaking camp at 4am, so we could see the sun rise behind us as we ascended the final 4.5 miles to the South Rim, just in time to see the flip-flop & latte “hikers” rise and begin their days…so many hours after we had started our day.
I respect those who see the accomplishment in setting a personal speed record through the canyon, but if your energy comes from the experience of seeing what so few ever will, and enjoying some pack-it-in and pack-it-out backpack camping, then take your time and see as much as you can.
I do not profess to see it all, in-fact, I will do this as long as I can…I should have another 50-or-so camping years left in me. I will continue to take the day-hikes and side trips to see what the speed-hikers will continue to miss. Its a beautiful place.
I first hiked rim to rim in October in 1993 with a group of 7 friends. We woke up the next morning on the North Rim with 2 inches of snow on the ground. It took a bit of cajoling, but we finally decided to hike back across to the South Rim. Once we got down below the rim, the snow gave way to a very fine day.
Since that time, I have tried to hike rim to rim and back as a 2 day or 3 day (with 2 nights on the North Rim) excursion once or twice a year. Do to injuries, fires, or snow, I haven’t always been able to, and a few times I only went one way. I didn’t keep count, but if I scratch my head and look through old photos, I figure I’ve hiked rim to rim 48 times. I haven’t done rim to rim to rim (a triple rimmer) in one day, and don’t know if I ever will. I enjoy taking a break at Ribbon Falls, and relaxing on the veranda at the North Rim lodge with my feet on the ledge, and having a nice dinner. I’ve always considered the hike North to South to be the easier hike, even the day after hiking South to North.
I’m looking forward to trips 49 and 50 this coming May.
I just got back from the challenge of hiking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim in one day. . . 13.5 hours. I not only hiked the Canyon, I got to share the experience with my sister, brother in law, my husband and awesome 12 year old daughter, and 2 great friends, Derek and Beth. We started out at the South Rim at 6:30am and made it to the river by 10am. Had some lunch and walked in the river a bit before taking off to towards the North Rim on the Kaibob trail. My daughter had a few break downs mentally on the way across and up, as this was a huge challenge, especially for a 12 year old girl. The way back up was so mentally tough for me, I kept thinking we were going to hit the top only to find another set of switch backs to hike through. You really do not realize how slow you are moving as you hike up the canyon. Fatigue and the steep inclines really slow you down.
I spent a lot of time in complete amazement of how beautiful the area is and how different it is from my home in Georgia. When we hit Cottonwood, we knew we only had 7 more miles, but it was going to be a long, steep 7 miles and we were all tired. Several people had knee pains and my husband’s shoe blew out the side, so he was hiking with no soles on his shoes! We set our sights on the trail head and took off around 2pm. Our goal was to hit the trail head by 6pm. . . ha ha, not even close! We finished in two groups, my group finished at 8pm and my husbands group finished 30 minutes later. Our friend, Beth, had her son meet us on the North Rim about 3-4 miles from the top and he hiked up the trail with us. He had a car and we were never so happy than to have him DRIVE us from the trail head to the Lodge, were we had a late dinner!
I will say this challenge was among the most physically tough challenges I have ever faced. The fact that we all finished (especially my daughter) was the proudest moment for me. I said I wanted to do this hike as a celebration of turning 40, and I did it! Will I do it again. . . ummm, not all in one day! I would not mind hiking down and spending a few days there and then hiking back up! As for my daughter. . . she says no way! but I have a feeling once time passes, she will be called back one day!
Hi Laurie: What route did you take to do this in one day? Thanks very much. I plan to do this with my three kids, all of them in their twenties. I enjoyed the comments about your twelve year old.
I celebrated my 60th hiking to Phantom Ranch. My first ever, hiking in this terrain. Yes, like you, I was sooooooo happy to find our ride at the top. And yes, after losing 20+ pounds training and surviving the incredible adventure (standing upright :D) it was a defining moment for me. Someday, I will be back. One day, I want my son, now 40, to have this incredible experience.