Some videos of our club members that completed this epic hike as less than 1% of all visitors to the Grand Canyon take on and complete the Rim to Rim hike.
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Rim to Rim Club® Members
October 18, 2015 by
This review may be a little long, fitting as our Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim journey started 5 years ago, right after my wife broke both of her ankles, two Talus fractures and a Jones fracture (right foot) in a freak accident while volunteering and providing home respite care to an elderly Air Force veteran. I sustained a shoulder and lower back injury at work. As part of our recovery, we drafted a list of progressively harder hikes as thresholds to chart our progress. The Rim-to-Rim was the final hike on this list, marking a remarkable and difficult healing process. Also, a fun 60th birthday present!
After a few years of frustration unable to secure permits/reservations through Xanterra, we were able to secure the necessary permits, along with Phantom Ranch housing and dining reservations, through a fantastic guided tour company! We trained faithfully and diligently for 6 solid months, using the wonderful stories and information from Rimtorim.org as part of our training plan. Finally, October 3rd arrived, our day to descend from the North Rim! Smiles, nerves, reflection, resolve!
At 5 a.m., packs double checked, stretches complete, and headlamps on, 7 excited first-timers and our seasoned guide did a group cheer and started into the fog shrouded abyss which would be our home for the next several days! Visibility started out at about 20 feet as the remnants of Hurricane Rosa meandered northeast toward the Four Corners region. Our progress started out slowly, as safety was paramount. Mother Nature rewarded our tenacity when just after morning nautical twilight the fog lifted and we were all treated to a most fabulous view of the Grand Canyon looking east towards the South Rim which can only be seen by those who descend well below the Coconino overlook. It was so beautiful even our guide temporarily lifted his otherwise firm ‘less gawking, more walking’ credo! We passed travelers ascending towards the North Rim and received some bad news that the water pipe serving the part of canyon and Phantom Ranch had burst (yet again), and there was no water, showers, etc. Yikes! We began our trek with a full 100 oz hydration bladder…would it be enough?
We continued our steep descent until we reached the Manzanita Rest area, and the water was still pumping out!!! We all topped off, as this would be our last water refill until Phantom Ranch. Fortunately the weather remained mild and moderate, never peaking above 80! Finally we arrived at the Cottonwood campground and broke for lunch. The ‘hard half’ was behind us, and it was as tough and steep as every blog, article and printed admonition warned it would be. But, with honest training, proper footwear, hydration/electrolyte replacement and use of collapsible trekking poles, we made it without injury or blister! Trail mix never tasted so good!
We continued our hike and unanimously agreed on two wonderful side trips: Ribbon Falls and about a 1/3 of the way up Clear Creek trail. The extra miles were WELL WORTH it as we were rewarded with amazing views of Ribbon Falls (and a cool dip in the pool!), and an hour or so later our first view of the mighty Colorado River. If your energy and time allow for these excursions, about 1 mile RT and 4 miles RT respectively, I recommend them both! If you are staying for 2 nights at Phantom Ranch doubling back to Clear Creek (as we all did!) isn’t too far at all.
Finally, we made it to Phantom Ranch and its famous Cantina. All the hype about the lemonade was spot on!! Best lemonade ever!! After almost 20 miles including side trips, we all enjoyed the citrusy treat while our guide checked us into the dorms. Mixed news – we could top off our drinking water from the spigot right in front of the Cantina, but the main water pipe was still broken and no showers were available. Spirits still soaring high, we all decided a (NPS approved) rinse off in the nearby Bright Angel Creek would be refreshing! And oh boy was it! The dorms had ‘bucket brigade’ water to flush toilets in the dorms, but the Ranch also had composting toilets which served us all just fine! A travel size pack of wipes came in handy too!
The dining at Phantom Ranch was amazing! They serve it up family style, 12 to a table, so every meal we met great fellow hikers and exchanged stories. The food was first class and there was always more than enough at breakfast and dinner…nobody left hungry. Beer and wine is available for purchase with dinner. Amazing considering everything is hauled down by mule!
There are scorpions around the dormitories (easily detected with a UV flashlight), mostly around the rocks, but we never saw one inside – too cold due to the A/C. The NPS rangers offer very informative interpretive talks at the amphitheater 20 yards or so from the Cantina. All the Rangers we met were so enthusiastic, knowledgeable and happy to chat and give advise where to explore in the area, what precautions to consider, etc. Super kudos to the Phantom Ranch staff and NPS Rangers who have to hike in and out of the Canyon just to get to work!!
October 5th. After the early seating breakfast, we assembled near the Cantina, topped off our water, stretched, said a prayer of thanks, and said goodbye to Phantom Ranch, truly a remarkable oasis, as we stepped onto the Bright Angel Trail and began our 10 mile climb to the South Rim.
Crossing the Silver Bridge in the dark, 8 headlamps bobbing up and down, the excitement grew with each step as we knew the climb would be tough, but the finish would be a group’s effort and a group’s reward! Again, morning nautical twilight cast first light on yet another beautiful view of the canyon, enjoyed by all as we followed the Colorado River. As we started to climb after the first restroom break, the Devil’s Corkscrew, a strange but enjoyable silence came over the normally chatty group as we were climbing at a steady pace, each with our own thoughts, nearly overwhelmed by nature’s ever changing beauty. All the training leading to this point paid off, as we weren’t distracted by fatigue … we were treated to amazing views at every turn and switchback! We were all stunned as we hiked into the Indian Garden campground, a richly lush and thriving grove of various flora, in the middle of a high desert canyon!
With our water topped off and spirits high, we embarked on the last half of the climb – the harder half – as the elevation became yet steeper. Again, with a positive mental attitude, wonderful and sincere group support, training and trekking poles, the climb was almost hypnotic with unparalleled beautiful landscapes every step of the way! Our guide broke it down into three separate hiking challenges with perfect breaks at each stop: 3 mile rest house, 1 1/2 mile rest house, and the Bright Angel trailhead itself, brilliant approach – he must have done this before!!
The trail became a bit more congested (and steep) starting after the 3 mile rest house as day hikers ventured down from the South Rim. The trail became oddly fragrant after the 1 1/2 rest house with walkers’/hikers’ perfume and deodorant. The last push, we had this! At last, we made it to the Bright Angel Trailhead!! Cheers and tears all around!! After the well deserved ‘selfie’ we sauntered over to the saloon at El Tovar and had a celebratory drink as our guide checked us in the Kachina Lodge!
The experience was truly worth all of the training, expense and physical effort and exertion required to complete this epic adventure! Thank you to Michelle and staff at rimtorim.org for providing such an accessible milieu to get information and read other hikers experiences as we prepared for our journey. Also, I purchased a Rim-to-Rim T-shirt well ahead of time and gave it to my wife at the Bright Angel Trailhead. A well deserved memento for all of her hard work and dedication to completing this arduous hike! Her tears of relief and gratitude made my day, a moment never to be forgotten!
In closing, a few suggestions.
* Start training months in advance. In addition to all of the truly great advice available on this website, there are scores of really fantastic blogs and videos to help change up your training to give you every chance to get properly prepared. I am a former US Marine who has hiked “in every climb and place” and know first-hand the value of preparation, mental and physical toughness, and teamwork.
* Train up to with what you will carry and wear on game day. Rescue may not be an option. Blisters suck and can ruin your whole adventure. Proper footwear (socks, liners and shoes or boots), and properly worn footwear – laced properly (yes, it does make a difference). We also applied Lueko tape to a few places on our feet prone to blisters. Neither my wife nor I had so much as a hotspot let alone blisters by adhering to this. We saw an equal number of people in low cut trail runners as we did in hiking shoes. Your choice is very personal, so training with them over a long period of time will ensure your safety and comfort (and confidence!). Also, we tried several different electrolyte and food source combinations, as having a reaction on the trail may create problems you really wouldn’t want or need. We ended up going with VEGA hydration powder, DIY trail mix from the bulk bins at Whole Foods, and low sugar CLIF protein bars. We never felt dehydration symptoms, and by grazing every 15-20 minutes we never felt hungry. Train with carrying your extra water and chow too!
* Use trekking poles! Poles are so well made, collapsible and light weight. Descending and ascending was great assisted with our use of poles. Having trained with them for months made a significant difference carrying the requisite gear/pack. Some parts of the well maintained trail are still pretty uneven, etc. I have no problem admitting I am not sure I would have completed the R2R as safely and injury free had I not used poles.
* Listen and look. Listen to your body and stop when you must, it isn’t a race! Look back every so often, the canyon will have different amazing views every 5 minutes! You will see things less than 1% of all Grand Canyon visitors will see – enjoy it all! Drink at least every 15-20 minutes even if you don’t feel thirsty, and snack about as often if you can even if you don’t feel hungry. This is truly smart and preventative. Cramps suck worse than blisters and can take an hour or longer to subside, and may be indicative of a more serious problem. I know I am repeating myself, but help may not be available.
* There is no reliable cell service below the rim until well above the 1 1/2 mile rest house. We carried a SPOT personal beacon, and our guide had the newest beacon with 2 way text capability. If you are hiking solo or in a small group this is something to consider. A lightweight safety blanket!
Nature provided a wondrous playground for you to enjoy. With proper planning, training and a positive mental attitude, I hope you come away with the same fulfilling sense of accomplishment and peace that we did!
Sean, we LOVE this story and you are amazing as you offered such great insight and perspective of it all! So happy to hear you and your wife had a wonderful experience! Welcome into the club and thank you for what you both do for others! – Michelle
The R3 started as my husband’s bucket list item. Mine was the Narrows but that is another awesome story times three! With each of our many R2’s over the years (Kaibab to river then up Bright Angel) the desire to do the R3 intensified. We did our first R3 south – north to south in one straight hike in 2016. It was AMAZING! This past Sept we hiked north – south – north and staying a night at Maswik between rims for my husband’s 60th birthday. It is all he wanted and he thought it would be his last hurray but The Grand Canyon keeps calling us back. We are making plans to do another R3. It really gets under your skin and in your blood.A spiritual experience and different every single time!
My R to R was way back. I had just moved to Phoenix with my job at IBM. It was my second trip in the canyon as I had been to Plateau Point once.
I got a ride to the North Rim from the South Rim and spent the night. After breakfast in the cafeteria and getting a sack lunch I proceeded down from the trail head. I remember some bridges and a pump station. Then I passed Phantom Ranch and the campground near the river.
I crossed the river on the one bridge (at that time) and seems like I went through a tunnel . Then up the Kaibab trail. I had only my Army canteen which I refilled at the ranch.
Soon after it got Really HOT, I ran out of water and became weak. I got very lucky though as a large troop of Boy Scouts came along on their way down to Phantom Ranch. They gave me water and shared a little from all their canteens.
As it got hotter and even with the water they had shared I began to weaken again. Plodding along a few yards at a time I reached Yaki Point about 10pm. My ride was waiting and we returned to the South Rim for the night. This was my most difficult ever walk including hiking of over 4000 miles life time hiking in Great Smokies National Park over 55 years.
This was in June, 1961, I was 30 years old.
My 2nd rim to rim with 3 of the same from my 1st group and 4 new rim to rimers. We started 9/22/16 in pouring rain, and it rained all day, until we got to Cottonwood. My husband always wondered what the desert looks like in a downpour, and he saw it first hand. The waterfalls on the North Kaibab trail were beautiful and terrifying at the same time. It’s almost surreal when you are navigating these obstacles, just doing what needs to be done, as safely as possible. We did this trip in a more leisurely pace, adding an extra day of camping so we could enjoy Ribbon Falls and Plateau Point, and it was perfect! We made the trip to Ribbon Falls on day 2, and were so pleased that we went all the way to the falls. DO NOT mistake your first view as all encompassing. The few extra minutes to get to the base and then the top, and then inside, is soooo worth it! We camped at Bright Angel the 2nd night, and participated in the a ranger led discussion about our National Parks, it was a nice way to pass time, and view the expansive night sky, truly a life altering experience in itself. The Colorado River crossing and Devil’s Corkscrew were so much easier with that 2nd night of camping. My 1st hike, we skipped Bright Angel, and the 12+ miles on day 2 were a little too much for our group. Indian Gardens, the lush oasis was camp for night 3. Again a ranger led discussion about the animal species in the Canyon helped pass some time, and was informative. Plateau Point at sunset has been on my bucket list since the first time a viewed that trail from the South Rim in 2004. Again, so peaceful and beautiful. A bucket list is a must have, when you start crossing off those experiences, it’s a feeling that is inexpiable. My husband actually cried after seeing the Studio at the top of the Bright Angel trail, it was on his bucket list to complete this hike. It made me happy for him and all the others in my group, and the others who have undertaken the task of crossing off a bucket list item. The Grand Canyon hike however, will not be crossed off of our lists, we will return again and again, keep exploring it’s beauty, and finding peace in the hike.
Regina,
Congratulations to you and the group and what a pleasure it was to meet you! We have no doubt you will be back enjoying this canyon as many times as you can and so happy to hear the weather cleared up for you!
Back in June 1990, my husband and I and a friend hiked Rim to Rim (North to South) in 13 hours. We did take a short break to cool our feet in the Colorado River. It was awesome!!! We have hiked the Grand Canyon five times (South Rim – usually down the Kaibab, over night at the Phantom Ranch, and then up the Bright Angel). We wish that everyone could enjoy this experience.
My son and I hiked North (North Kaibab) to South (Bright Angel Trail) staying one night each at Cottonwood, Bright Angel and Indian Garden Campgrounds (4 day and 3 night hike) – 9/12 through 9/15. Highest temp was about 90, lots of shade, almost constant breezes. 7 miles / 7 miles / 5 miles / 5 miles to complete the hike. We passed through the “box” and kept wondering when we would experience the “heat”. Hiked primarily from 8 am to about 11:30 or noon each day and relaxed the rest with side hikes (Plateau Point, River Trail, Ribbon Falls, Roaring Springs). A very pleasant hike – a “walk in the park” it seemed. MUCH, MUCH easier than our one day hike of Mount Whitney a few years ago!
In 2011, three moms and their 14-year old kids did the R2R, north to south. The kids finished in 10 hours. The moms took about an hour longer. We laughed, we cried and we did the “canyon shuffle” for a few days afterwards. The experience was so worth our sore muscles. I’ve been wanting to repeat ever since.
That is awesome Cathy! Welcome to the club!
Completed my 10th and 11 R2R hikes in May 2016, hiking every time with a great trail companion and friend. Each crossing special in it’s own way, we have gotten to know the trail very well and appreciate the spectacular views and overlooks each time we pass. The trail has gotten a bit more crowded each season, R2R hikers are the always great to talk with at the rest stops along the trail. Planning for 2017!!
WOW! You are a veteran club hiker Jim! Please feel free to chime in on any of the posts!
My husband and I hiked Rim to Rim 5 years ago, after 3 completions of Rim to River/back trips, each a different variety. In 2012, we did what we thought would be our last GC hike, looking forward to a completion of the Appalachian Trail in upcoming years. Last year, we set out on our AT adventure, my husband loving it; me, not so much. I left the trail after only 5 days. I kept thinking that this is not where I wanted to be. I wanted to be in the Canyon.
So this year, as my husband sets out for his 2nd section of the AT, I decided to fulfill my life-long dream of hiking the Canyon alone. I wanted time for meditation, a little Tai Chi, and solitude in the most beautiful place on earth. I knew a good friend of mine loved solitary adventures in nature as well, so we are heading out this May. We plan on hiking alone, but will love the company at the campgrounds as we will be hiking VERY slowly to soak in everything the canyon has to offer. Five heavenly days before walking out.
The Canyon is calling and I MUST go.
Love this and exactly how we feel about this hike over other bucket list hikes. There’s nothing like this place and you can be one with the canyon without all of the “worry”. Here’s to a great 5 days in it for you and your friend in May. Some of us may just want to jump in your backpack as this sounds like an AWESOME TRIP!
I did my first of three R-R-R in 2005 to celebrate my 65th birthday. Afterwards I decided that I would do another every five years to honor these special occasions. This year I completed my third to mark my 75th. Look for me again in 2020. I’ll be the fellow with a smile on my face every step of the way. Sorry no pictures, I like to live in the moment.
You are awesome Norm! Will be looking for you in 2020!
We hiked R to R on September 19, 2015 with a gentlemen hiking R to R on his 75th birthday. Just wondering if that was you? Very impressed either way!
Congrats, Sir! First time at 65, wow! I’m only 69 and am preparing for my third R2R; the first was in 1977, the second in 2002 and my next (and final, I’m sure) one will be late Sept or early Oct this year. All 3 will have been one-day ordeals (the first South to North…yikes!), the second North to South, and the coming one will also be North to South (I learn more as I get older). Best wishes to all who do this jewel in the crown of hiking!
Tom P
Great review and ideas! Thanks from another 50 + hiker:)
With a group of twelve from Minnesota, we hiked from the North Rim to the South Rim and then drove to Hualapai Hilltop to hike to Supai and the series of Havasu waterfalls for a total of 64 miles.
Our trip: The Trifecta
Six couples, in their 50s, flew from Minneapolis to Phoenix on a beautiful Friday morning in mid-September 2014. Spent Friday night at Bright Angel Lodge at the South Rim.
Saturday morning took a pre-arranged shuttle to the North Rim. Stopped at Lee’s Ferry, enjoyed the scenery, and purchased some turquoise jewelry from the roadside vendors. Spent Saturday night in the Western Cabins (reserved in September 2013) at the Grand Canyon Lodge. Had a wonderful meal in the lodge restaurant (reserved in January 2014). Hiked a bit at the North Rim and wished we could have spent an extra night.
Bright and early Sunday morning took the shuttle from the lodge to the North Kaibab trail head. We hiked to Ribbon Falls for lunch and then to Phantom Ranch to spend two nights. The hike down North Kaibab was the most difficult of the entire trip due to the heat and length and our 50+-year old knees. However, Bright Angel Creek was a god-send for anyone who needed some cooling off. Plopping in the creek with full gear (shoes and clothes) minus our backpacks, make for some of the best memories of our trip.
Took day hikes on Monday within the canyon and spent more time soaking in Bright Angel Creek which felt wonderful due to the 100 (in the shade) degree temps – even in September. Meals at Phantom Ranch (reserved September 2, 2013) were wonderful. Several in our group saw a pink rattlesnake on the trail; a fuzzy tarantula in the lady’s shower room which was smaller and blacker than what we’ve seem in the past in Texas and Oklahoma; and many scorpions right outside the ranch and our cabins thanks to the black light flashlight that we carried with us to find them.
Hiked from Phantom Ranch across the Colorado River to Bright Angel Trail before sunrise Tuesday morning with head-lamps. Took a detour to Plateau Point and were fortunate to view two pairs of California Condors. Spent much of the day at the 3-mile rest house before arriving at the South Rim due to one of our hikers getting vocal cord dysfunction (we learned this from Belgium hikers who recently graduated from med school there) which required a 9-1-1 emergency call. The park ranger and park volunteer who came to the rescue were awesome and eventually we were able to continue to the South Rim in the late afternoon shade. Spent Tuesday evening celebrating over dinner, drinks and a good night’s sleep at Bright Angel Lodge.
Wednesday morning we ate a hearty breakfast at the lodge and then drove 188 miles to Hualapai Hilltop (had a wonderful lunch in Seligman on the way) and hiked 9 miles to our lodge in Supai. Loved the dusty, native American town where there were more ponies and dogs than people. Checked into the Havasupai Lodge (reserved in December 2013) after a hearty meal at Sinyella’s (no advance reservations required).
Thursday was the best day ever – hiking to the falls – Navajo, Havasu, and Mooney (personal favorite). Spent an amazing day lounging in the blue-green water and falls. Ate dinner again at Sinyella’s and had their wonderful fry bread, fry bread tacos, and fry bread burgers. What more could we ask?
Friday morning hiked 9 miles from our Supai lodge back to the hilltop for our journey home. Started before sunrise (best thing we learned from our hike – do it in the dark!) and were back to the hilltop by 9:00 am. Waiting for one our of 12 to arrive via helicopter, we purchased chips, bananas, pickles, and drinks from the hilltop vendor (thank you!). We drove back to Phoenix, stopping again in Seligman for lunch, for the flight home to Minneapolis on Saturday morning.
Trip of a lifetime!!!!